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Leaving Paris for Several Days in the Country

  • John M. Lilley Library, Penn State Behrend Archives
  • Editors:
    • AMA
    • MRS
  • Summary: This letter describes a journey through France, featuring visits to chateaux and historical sites near Tours, personal encounters, scenic drives, and Mrs. Behrend's flight to Brussels.
Wednesday, July 20th. LEAVING PARIS FOR SEVERAL DAYS IN THE COUNTRY-


Breakfast in our round white sitting room. Very smartly
we packed into ONE suit case, leaving all the rest at Le
Bristol
for our return from the country a few days later.
Took the noisy little morning train for Tours-about
2 1/2 hours. We could see several Huge chateaux up on the
hillsides. Amboise for one. Just before we reached Tours.
Mr Dickinson met us. At His father was Jo Davidson the famous
sculptor- and the Davidsons live in the old farm manor-
house that was his.. We drove to Brech^eron their farm, where
we had a very substantial lunch- as Mrs. D explained we
would need it as we had a busy afternoon before us. Sorrel
soup, steak and a salad. We had a pleAsant room on the
ground floor a tiny dressing room and a HUGE bath room
with a tub large enough for a baby elephant!

AT MANOIRBERCHERON


After breakfastLUNCHEON we started out with Jack Davidson
in his cosy little car for the "afternoon tour".


Went first to Chenoceaux- this chateau we went
inside of. Lofty hall and rooms with paintings of
people belonging to the various families connected with
the chateau, many years ago. One of the interesting
parts of this particular mansion was the covered bridge
fRom the fuRther end of the building to the shore on the
other side. This was built up over the river by a series
0of arches. An important building was to have been
errected on the further side of the river connected with
the bridge. It reminded us of the bridge in Florenc
e-Ponte Vecchio.


From here we drove through the lovely river valleys.
Three of these rivers. Amboise we saw from below
and above. The round tower from the river side was the
one the riders went up to the stables- on a ramp insiDe
the huge tower. The large tower on the other side was
that used by royalty ,etc;carriages went in this one
up to an important court. We went inside the parts of
the castle-absolutely bare rooms- being repaired
IN the church and a tomb. Saw a chateau or two and
various churches outide. Then visited Sache, Balkac
old home- now a museum. An interestint rather tall
building- not especially large. The medium sized living


was furnished exactly as Balzak left it. Wallpaper in
imatation of heavy folds of materiaL with borDers and
rosetters in a mustard shade. Ratyer gay floWER chitz
on the chairs and sofa. The view from all the windows very
lovely. The floor above was his bedroom. A|very small bed
fitted into an alcove.(such a steep narrow stairway
to get up to this room) Across the l little hall was father
a spacious room which/contained a large collection of
Jo Davidson's work. Almost entirely busts of famous
people. A life size figure of Gertrude Stein. The busts
were all arranged on tall swuare pedestals of varying
The likeness being startlingly fine. We could see from
these high windows far over the beautiful rolling hi
country-and over the tiny villages scattered over the
fieLDs. Supper Mrs Davidson explained was a very light
meal - it was excellent Sorrell soup Soufleeland a
salad. In the evening we went with Jack to see the
"illumanation" A little way down the roAd at the chateau
Azay d'Rideau. A heavenly place surrounded by a moat
filled with water(as it should be!) It was then quite
dark. People sat about in the ground on rugs- some
walked about. Beautiful music and a story of a tragic
happening iN the castle (many years ago) was recited
from the castly windows. The windows being lit as it
would fit into the story.


Thursday July 21st, Breakfast in our room. About I
I0 we started ^with the Davidsons and theirnlittle boy plus
a picnic. First to a monestry- Loches - the original
walls enclosing it. Large wheat fields were within the
enclosure. The buildings were of the century. We
then drove through' what was the royal forrest-came to a
pretty round thached summer house. As it rained a little we ate our excellent lunch at this place.


Went back to Loche, the chateau and church. Visited
the tomb of Agnes Sorel. and went through' many barren rooms
in the chateau- one of which Joan of Arc was supposed to
have had her second audience with the King. At this time
she was said to have selected him from the large gathering
(she|never having seen him before) Rained light
showers. Then to Chinon- where we had tea and
walked through the old village. This particular town is HELD
by the government as to building and changes of any
sort. (Like Chester in England and Rothenburg in Germany)
In the evening a couple came for over night. We could
have managed very nicely without HIM. Very noisy and disagreed with everybody and every thing!


July 22nd. Day of departure. Drove to St. Pierre
de Clochs
just outside of Tours- where we took the II.20
train for Paris. Mrs Davidsons' Mother drove over with us.
Her sister lives in the U.S.A at Hanover. The car
acted up on the way over- but we got there!!


Saturday, July 23, 1955 Now we leave for Paris- not very much of a
visit but there is much to see in Europe- and many places
we may never get around to again' However Paris I hope to
visit agaiN.


We left Le Bristol for the AirWAYs a little before 9 and
stopped enroute at Hermes to collect a scarf-decorated with
all the famous chateaux of France- a few of which we HAD
visited during our recent little stay in Tours. This
scarf a souviener for Gail. Then on to the air port.
A two-motor plane awaited us (this did not entrane ME)
Not many passengers. We paid about $6.00 over weight- but
expected this anyway. About 3/4 hour's flight among the
clouds. A bit bumpy. But we GOT there O.K.


Mercedes BUcher met us at the Brussels terminal with her
new grey Ford Sedan. It was good to see her! We always have
fun. She drove usuto Brussels and through the lovely parks.
Landing at the Metropole (where M. alSo lives until her
apartment\is ready) we went up to our rooms. Nothing very
fancy but quiet. Some flowers arrived from M.G. and Clyde
and directly After, in they came!They were at the Atlanta
hotel
alMost next door on this busy street. We all / trailed
over to the GRand Place. Where we had a truly delicious
meal of steak potatoes etc ,on\little table placed out/on the
sidewalk. This beautiful Place is to me one of the most
beautiful sigHT have ever seen. It is very large and neatly
paved with blocks of stone- as are most of the streets
in Brussels The distinguished Town Hall(Hotel de Ville)
occupies practiced the end, facing the lovely group of\Guild houses
or Corporation Houses. All around the square are these very
Beautiful structURes, darkened with age, the carvings and
cornices etc decorted with gold. The facades are sumourount
by irregular lr roofs topped with emblems of the guilds.
A basket, a lamP, The|effect at night, when the buildings are
wonderfully l illumanated, is something never to be
forgotten.


WE drove WiTH M. in her cosy grey Ford all thro' the lovely
parks. Huge tre trees, lakes, pleasant rolling meadows,
Flowers in MANYspots,we drove past many famous buildings


Palias de Justice etc. After a rest period we set forth
again for ouR Beloved Square where we had a delicious
dinner- so good and so cheap. In a charming little restaurant
approached the a tiny paved ally. IN the Flemish stloSTYLE
Carved panels,and old Delft plates pewter and all the
brass most beautifully polished. Le Bon Vondiuex Temps. Be
SUre to visit this if you go to Brussels!